A Kalahari Reflection

By Pavay Valabjee

I went into the Kalahari Primitive Trail not quite knowing how to feel - mostly excited, but also nervous, as I had never done an overnight trail before.

Looking back, I can confidently say it was one of the best experiences of my life. From learning how to track black and white rhino on foot, to being woken in the middle of the night by hyenas in camp, to the many laughs and deep, meaningful conversations among trailists - I loved every minute.

There was something incredibly special about being on foot in the Kalahari, surrounded by like-minded people and being guided by such knowledgeable and experienced individuals.

In terms of wildlife sightings, some of the standout moments included seeing bat-eared foxes up close, encountering black rhino, white rhino and oryx on foot, and watching the vast herds of eland, springbok, zebra and giraffe gather at the pans to drink. These were truly unforgettable experiences and among the highlights of the trail.

Beyond the wildlife, there were countless aspects of the trail that stood out, but two in particular left a lasting impact on me.

Firstly, my late grandfather played a significant role in rhino conservation in KZN in the late 1990s and early 2000s, working alongside Ian Player to help ensure the survival of these animals. He instilled a deep love for wildlife and nature in my parents, which they in turn passed on to me. Being able to track rhinos on foot and share the same space as them was therefore a deeply meaningful, full-circle moment. I felt a profound sense of gratitude in being able to honour his legacy in such a way.

Secondly, the concept of time - or rather, the absence of it - was something that really struck me. In our daily lives, we are constantly checking the time and allowing it to dictate our actions, even though it is ultimately an abstract construct. We often become so focused on schedules and future commitments that we often lose sight of the present moment.

On the trail, without phones or watches, time fell away. This was incredibly liberating. It reminded me not to take things too seriously and to be fully present in each moment. After all, the present is all we truly have.

While it may sound like it was all rainbows and sunshine, there were also challenging moments on the trail that I hadn’t fully anticipated.

Sleeping exposed to the elements in 5-10°C temperatures, on hard, cold ground with only a sleeping mat and sleeping bag for warmth, was certainly an adjustment. It pushed me out of my comfort zone and tested my resilience in ways I hadn’t expected.

At one point, I also experienced heat stroke, which left me slightly out of action for a day and a bit. It was a concerning experience and a stark reminder of how quickly conditions can take their toll in such an environment, reinforcing the importance of listening to your body and respecting the elements.

These moments, although difficult at the time, ultimately added to the experience and made it all the more rewarding.

There was something deeply rewarding about being so immersed in nature and entirely off the grid, stripped of distractions and fully connected to the environment and those around me.

This experience is one I will carry with me for a long time.

I am forever grateful for this opportunity to have been able to represent YWP on this Kalahari Primitive Trail and for Tchagra Trails for inviting us on trail.

I hope that many more young wildlife photographers and nature enthusiasts can get out on trail, and I would highly recommend the Kalahari Primitive Trail to all.

On the first day, we were dropped off into the wild unknown by reserve management - this would be the last bit of civilisation we would see for the next week. We spent some time chatting about everyone’s backgrounds before setting off into the vast and beautiful unknown of the Kalahari.

The area we were in is known as the “Green Kalahari,” which became immediately evident through the tall grass and abundance of trees on that first day. As we moved through the landscape, we slowly adjusted to our surroundings, often stopping to readjust our packs as the strapping was incorrect or the weight distribution was unbalanced. We also quickly learned the hard way about the vicious black thorn shrubs, which tore into our legs and left us looking as though we had been attacked by a cat.

As the sun began to set, we started collecting wood for the fire, and a sense of nervous anticipation set in at the thought of our first night in the Kalahari.

Shortly after my night watch, we were fortunate enough to spot a brown hyena quite close to camp - an extremely special sighting.

Throughout that first night, I shivered through the cold and found myself eagerly awaiting the warmth of morning to arrive.

On the second day, we were slowly beginning to adjust to the trail lifestyle. We set out eager to explore the unfamiliar landscape and were soon rewarded with fresh rhino tracks. The guides explained the structure of the spoor and how to interpret the animal’s movements from it. We were then given the opportunity to track black rhino one by one, with guidance from the team alongside us. It was a phenomenal and deeply memorable experience.

On the third day, we were treated to some exceptional birding and breathtaking night skies. We also learned about the tsamma melon, which served as a vital water source for local tribes in the past and continues to sustain wildlife today. We even opened one up and tasted it, finding it surprisingly similar to the rind of a watermelon and quite refreshing given that it’s highly water-rich (95% water).

We settled down at a pan for the evening waiting for animals to come down to drink and were rewarded by a white rhino coming down to the water to drink.

On the fourth day, we enjoyed a much-needed slow day at the pan, waiting for animals to come down and drink. It was a valuable opportunity to let our bodies recover and to fully absorb our surroundings at a more relaxed pace.

On the fifth day, we had no idea of the beauty that awaited us. It was a long walking day of around 15km, and by this point we were fully immersed in the red sand landscape. It was increasingly clear, from the number of animals we were encountering, that we were approaching a water source. When we finally emerged from a thicket, we were all completely awestruck by the scene in front of us - eland, zebra, gemsbok, springbok, and wildebeest stretched as far as the eye could see, all gathered at the many small pans within the larger grass pan. It is an image that will remain with me forever.

The second-to-last day was spent observing the animals at the pan as they moved through their daily rhythms, and we embraced the slower pace. When the nearest pan was empty, we even went for a swim, which was a refreshing and liberating experience. We also watched herds of giraffe coming down to drink - a sight most of us were not accustomed to - and had the privilege of seeing bat-eared foxes slowly waking and foraging nearby.

We also had a very cool encounter with a white rhino in the night who came no more than 40-50m away from us at which point we slowly started backing up and the rhino turned around.

On the last morning, the Kalahari had saved the best for last in the early hours of the morning when the person on night watch spotted a black rhino at the edge of the one pan. This was the pinnacle of the trail for me and capped off a very special trail. We were also treated to a stunning sunrise with a single gemsbox directly below the sun which made for some amazing photographic opportunities.

After this, the final morning was emotional, as the reality of leaving the special place we had called home for the past week began to sink in. The guides suggested we take some quiet time to fully reflect and process the experience before leaving the pan. It was a profound moment for all of us, as we sat in silence and took in the landscape one last time.

Shortly afterwards, we began the final walk to the pickup point, which felt far too close for everyone’s liking. We were greeted by warm smiles from the reserve managers and cold drinks from a cooler box - a very welcome contrast after a week of only water and coffee.

From there, we began the long drive back to the lodge. The journey was quiet and emotional as we left behind what had felt like paradise, each of us reflecting on the incredible week we had just shared.